A Liège waffle isn't the fluffy breakfast waffle you pour out of a bowl. It's a Belgian street-food waffle made from a rich, yeasted dough, closer to brioche than pancake batter, with chunks of pearl sugar folded in. In the hot iron the sugar melts and caramelizes into a crisp, golden crust around a soft, chewy center.

This fall version has pumpkin in the dough.

Real pumpkin, cooked down. I roast plain pumpkin puree until it's thick and concentrated, so you get pumpkin flavor without a wet, heavy waffle. It goes into the dough along with brown sugar, vanilla, and a spice blend I mix myself: cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, allspice, and a little clove.

Butter, worked in by hand. The dough is rich with butter, and I work it in by hand until it turns smooth and stretchy. It takes patience, and it's why the inside of the waffle is tender.

Pearl sugar for the crust. Belgian pearl sugar doesn't dissolve like regular sugar. It holds its shape in the dough, then melts in the iron and leaves crunchy, caramelized edges with sweet pockets inside.

Made fresh. I mix the dough for each batch of orders and bake it that week, instead of holding it for days.

Pumpkin Spice Liège Waffles are $4 each or $20 for a six-pack, and you can mix flavors in a six-pack. They're best warm, so give them a minute in a toaster or oven. They're also good split and filled with a little cream cheese, or on their own with coffee.

Order at wheatandryene.com. Local pickup in Omaha is on Wednesdays.